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The Woodrich Brand Wood Restoration System

Natural wood sided homes typically use a cedar or redwood siding however, wood decks including garden decks and wood fences can be built from any number of species of wood. The most common types of wood used in the construction of wood decks is cedar and pressure treated pine. Depending on the part of the country you are in you might also run into redwood or ipe wood decks. As outdoor wood decks become more popular builders are constantly trying to find more durable and ornate types of exotic hardwood for their construction.

For the most part the wood restoration process is the same for all types of wood.

The main thing you want to consider about the type of wood you are working with is hardness. Obviously the more dense or hard the wood is, the more pressure it will take without damage. Since your goal  is not to damage the wood, it is always best to work with the lowest effective pressure. If the process is followed correctly you should only need enough pressure to perform a thorough rinsing.

The wood restoration process we teach at Woodrich-Brand involves the application of chemical wood deck cleaners and strippers that allow you to return the wood to a like new condition with the lowest possible risk of damage to your wood. The idea being to always let the cleaners do the work so that very little pressure is needed. For this process there are Four (4) main products that are used: Wood Brighteners, Wood Deck Cleaners and Strippers and an exterior wood stain or sealer.

Wood Deck Cleaners

A multi purpose wood deck cleaner called EFC-38 (Environmentally Friendly Cleaner/Stripper) was developed to handle the cleaning of most exterior wood surfaces. This cleaner was designed to be sprayed onto the wood deck and allowed to dwell for about 15 min. During this dwell time EFC-38 will be hard at work killing mold and mildew, breaking up dirt and grime and loosening the dead gray surface pulp for easy removal. Unlike most wood deck cleaners EFC-38 also contains key ingredients that allow it to re-emulsify most oil based finishes as well. This mean that you can remove products like TWP®, Ready Seal®, Olympic®, Cuprinol® and many other popular semitransparent oil based finishes without the need for harsh caustics.

A note on cleaning

Most often if a finish is more than a year or two old the wood deck will be very difficult to clean without significant loss of finish. This will result in patches or areas on the wood where the finish held up better and did not wash away next to areas that are completely bare wood. When the substrate is in this condition it is not conducive to the application of a new finish. If the existing finish is over a year or two old, plan on removing it completely and bid accordingly.

Wood Deck Strippers

HD-80 (Heavy Duty Stripper) was formulated to break down and remove even the toughest wood deck finishes fast. HD-80 was designed to be sprayed on the wood deck surface and allowed to dwell for about 15 min per coat of finish that is being removed. Hd-80 is a powerful caustic formulation and requires that surrounding vegetation be masked. Because of HD-80 high pH it will raise the natural pH of the wood and cause some species of wood to darken. Whenever you perform a strip job, you want to return the wood to it’s natural color and pH. This can easily be done with the application of a Brightener / Neutralizer.

Stripping should be done any time there is an existing finish, unless you are there to apply a maintenance coat. The most important part of any finish application is the preparation of the substrate. The wood should be completely free of dirt, grime, mold, mildew and any existing stain or sealer.

Wood Deck Brighteners

Citralic Brightener / Neutralizer was specially formulated to neutralize wood after the application of a stripper like HD-80. It is important to return the wood to a natural pH before that application of a finish. If the pH is too far off it will have an adverse effect on the longevity and performance of the finish. Citralic should also be used following EFC-38 to further brighten the wood and help even out a "splotchy" appearance. Citralic can also be used stand alone to remove tannin and rust stains that you see around nails or screws or anytime that you would like to brighten wood deck. You should always rinse well after the application of a brightener / neutralizer.

Wood Deck Finishes

WOOD-TUX Wet Application Wood Deck Stain

Take back control of your staining schedule with this unique product. Wood-Tux is an oil based stain that can be applied to wet or dry wood. Extremely high in pigment and resin solids, Wood-Tux boasts an impressive spread rate. Naturally low in VOCs, Wood-Tux (like all of our finishes) is available to contractors in all 50 states! The flexibility of this formula makes Wood-Tux the obvious choice of wood restoration professionals.

Woodrich Brand Exotic Hardwood Wiping Stain

Goes on rich to soak into dense exotic hardwoods. Brush, roll or spray on, then wipe with a dry rag to reveal a beautiful furniture quality finish. Very high in both pigment and resin solids so it's durable enough for the rugged outdoors. Guaranteed to outperform any other finish on exotic hardwoods.

Woodrich Brand Stain & Seal

Based on the same advanced technology used in our Wood-Tux formulation, Woodrich Brand Stain & Seal will help you take your restoration business to the next level. Woodrich Brand Stain is extremely easy to use and very forgiving. This is the ideal product for the contractor that doesn't have the time to stand by and make sure the product is applied correctly.

Woodrich Brand Timber Oil

Extremely easy to apply. Even first time users can expect perfect results. Absolutely will not overlap, run or leave drip marks. Dives deep to replenish old dry wood. Loaded with transoxide pigments providing much better coverage than other paraffinic stains. Ideal for annual or semi annual maintenance contracts FREE SHIPPING on every pail!

The Wood Deck Restoration Process

The restoration process is basically the same for cleaning or stripping with the only differences being in the chemicals used and the masking that will be required. The process involves three steps: Cleaning or Stripping, Brightening and Neutralization and Finish Application. Below you will find detailed information on each step. To help you convey the importance of each step to your customers, please see sample information sheet at the end of this document.

Heavy Duty Cleaning and Removing Aged Semi Transparent Finishes

For removing old semi-transparent finishes and heavy duty cleaning use EFC-38

For best results always use EFC-38 as instructed by the product label. Always perform a test patch to determine product suitability. EFC-38 is designed for use on all exterior wood.

First apply EFC-38 to a small inconspicuous area of about one square foot. Choose a spot on the deck, fence or siding that is well protected from the elements such as behind a bush or under a planter or mat on a deck. The idea being to choose an area that will present the greatest challenge.

After you have applied the EFC-38 to the test patch, allow to dwell 5 - 10 minutes and perform a scratch test. Using a tongue depressor (or a stick) scratch with light pressure back and forth over the treated surface. If the surface can easily be removed showing bare wood stop the test and note the dwell time. If the surface resists the scratch test allow an additional 5 minutes of dwell time keeping the surface wet with EFC-38 and perform another scratch test. When you are able to easily remove the finish with a scratching motion, note the total dwell time and rinse the surface thoroughly.

Depending on the age, type and condition of the finish you are removing, the dwell time can be anywhere from 5 - 15 minutes. The dwell time may be longer if there are multiple coats of finish that need to be removed.

Product Application

When applying EFC-38 be sure to take necessary masking precautions. Protect all adjacent surfaces that are not to be stripped. Protect vegetation from direct over spray. EFC-38 should not cause spotting on most plants. If plants do spot, his will only effect existing foliage. New growth will not be effected.

Apply product from bottom to top being careful to saturate the entire surface you intend to clean. When working on large areas, keep the product wet for the duration of the dwell time. If the product dries, it has quit working. For best results keep wet with a mist of EFC-38.

When cleaning a cedar home or log cabin treat the bottom three courses of an entire wall then work back treating the next three courses. Continue in this manner until you have reached the top of the wall. Keep the surface wet with an additional misting of EFC-38 as necessary.

Finish Removal

Perform a scratch test on the finish being sure to pick a spot that would likely be the toughest to remove. If the surface can easily be scratched off revealing bare wood beneath you are ready to rinse. If the surface is not easily removed, allow additional dwell time keeping the surface wet.

When you are ready to rinse the surface use a pressure washer at the lowest possible pressure. 600 - 900 PSI is ideal. Work following the same pattern you used when applying the EFC-38. Rinsing should be done in a sweeping motion, fanning your strokes at the beginning and end. After you have removed the finish from the entire surface you are working on give the surface a good rinse.

Stripping Heavy Duty Concentrations of Semi Transparent and Opaque Finishes

For removing heavy or stubborn finishes use HD-80.

When applying HD-80 be sure to take necessary masking precautions. Protect all adjacent surfaces that are not to be stripped. Protect vegetation from direct over spray. HD-80 will cause spotting on some plants. This will only effect existing foliage. New growth will not be effected.

Apply product from bottom to top being careful to saturate the entire surface you intend to strip. When working on large areas, keep the product wet for the duration of the dwell time. If the product dries, it has quit working. For best results keep wet with a mist of HD-80.

When stripping a cedar home or log cabin treat the bottom three courses of an entire wall then work back treating the next three courses. Continue in this manner until you have reached the top of the wall. Keep the surface wet with an additional misting of HD-80 as necessary.

Perform a scratch test on the finish being sure to pick a spot that would likely be the toughest to remove. If the finish can easily be scratched off revealing bare wood beneath you are ready to rinse. If the finish is not easily removed, allow additional dwell time keeping the surface wet.

When you are ready to rinse the surface use a pressure washer at the lowest possible pressure. 600 - 900 PSI is ideal. Work following the same pattern you used when applying the HD-80. Rinsing should be done in a sweeping motion, fanning your strokes at the beginning and end. After you have removed the finish from the entire surface you are working on give the surface a good rinse.

Brightening and Neutralizing

For best results always use Citralic as instructed by the product label. Always perform a test patch to determine product suitability. Citralic is designed for use on all exterior wood.

When applying Citralic be sure to take necessary masking precautions. Protect all adjacent surfaces that are not to be stripped. Protect vegetation from direct over spray. Citralic should not cause spotting on most plants. If plants do spot, his will only effect existing foliage. New growth will not be effected.

Apply product from bottom to top being careful to saturate the entire surface you intend to clean. When working on large areas, keep the product wet for the duration of the dwell time. If the product dries, it has quit working. For best results keep surface wet with a mist of Citralic until desired result is achieved.

Finish Application

When applying finish, be sure to take necessary masking precautions. Protect all adjacent surfaces that are not to be stripped. Protect vegetation from direct over spray. Over spray could result in spotting of the leaves on some plants. If plants do spot, his will only effect existing foliage. New growth will not be effected.

Your goal is to get the wood to accept as much of the product as possible without allowing the product to build up on the surface. Woodrich Brand® Timber Oil is much higher in paraffinic oil content and lower in resin solids. This allows for very deep penetration when you are working on older wood that has lost much of its natural sugars and oils. Because Timber Oil is a non drying finish you can apply additional coats for even greater penetration. No matter how much you apply, it will never overlap or turn shiny.

On the opposite end of the spectrum is Wood-Tux® WET. Wood-Tux® is extremely high in resin solids and has nearly 3 times the level of transoxide pigment you find in most stains. Wood-Tux is designed to be applied in one saturating coat, allowed to dwell and then back brushed with a dry brush to remove any excess product. Because this formula is so high in resin and pigment solids, it is important not to allow the product to puddle on the surface or it could result in shiny patches.

Apply product from bottom to top being careful to saturate the entire surface you intend to seal. The spread rate for each product is on the label. Try to follow these guidelines. Severely old and dry wood may require slightly more product.

When staining a cedar home or log cabin, treat the bottom three courses of an entire wall then back brush as needed to remove any drips or runs. Continue by treating the next three courses in this manner until you have reached the top of the wall.



 

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